Big Ben(der) innit?
On this July 4th weekend, I reminisce my trip to London, England. Some might say another upside of winning the American Revolutionary War is getting to visit our adorably accented friends across the pond.
After riding the high of my first solo trip to Paris, I decided London would be my next adventure. I’d dreamed of visiting England since high school, and it turned out to be one of my favorite trips ever. The first things that may come to mind are “this season’s diamond” (Bridgerton reference), the Queen, Harry Styles, and tea parties, but look closer, and you’ll find much more: the Indian and African cultural influences, Shakespearian plays, Gothic architecture, legendary music, and the history of the British Empire.
For me, the best way to get to know a city is by foot. However, in London, the Tube is a top notch public trans system that aided my commute and got me around faster than one can say “Worcestershire.” Here’s how to divide and conquer London is just 4 days.
Day 1: Mayfair, Soho and Covent Garden
Day 2: Westminster and Kensington
Day 3: Bus Tour of all of London
Day 4: Shoreditch and Camden Town
Outline of Soho/Mayfair/Covent Garden in orange, Westminster/Kensington in pink, Shoreditch in red, and Camden Town in blue.
I stayed in a residential part of the city called South Bank, located South of Thames River. This area is a cheaper option since it’s a bit further from the bustling city. However, if you’ve got more pounds in your pocket (not talking about your weight of course), the best places to stay are closer to West End: Covent Garden, Piccadilly, Leicester Square, and Westminster.
The Swanky Streets: Mayfair, Soho and Covent Garden
As I walked from South Bank toward the River Thames, I could see the tall London Eye slowly spinning. The skies were gray and the air was still, as if hesitating to decide if we needed more rain. It was November 2023, and I was so ecstatic that the adrenaline overshadowed my jet-lag despite landing 2 hours ago.
The London Eye on the Thames River
I reached the River Thames, and its shores were teeming with tourists and locals bundled up in scarves and hats. The London Eye is impressive, but it wasn’t personally worth the price to go up. I took a good look and continued towards the Big Ben. The iconic clock tower is actually named the “Elizabeth Tower” while the name “Big Ben” belongs to the bell inside. I could hear the bells chime melodically each hour.
Big Ben and Little Hannah
I had a few hours before meeting my friend Selin at the University of London, where she was studying for the semester. I roamed the neighborhoods of Mayfair and Soho, two lovely areas with boutiques, the finest pubs, top restaurants, and 5-star hotels. I’d say these areas are the most consumerist (a shopaholic’s dream).
Bordering the greenery of Hyde Park, Mayfair is an upscale area populated with elegant Georgian townhouses, fancy hotels, and gourmet restaurants. Similarly, Soho, or “South of Horton,” has great fashion, live entertainment, LGBTQ+ bars, multi-cultural cuisines, and night-life and is well known for its more “buzzing and bohemian” vibe. Right on the border between Mayfair and Soho, there is a grand street called Regent Street, which is remembered for its international stores and flagship brands. Because it was November, Regent Street was already decorated with gorgeous Christmas lights and angels.
Regent Street during the holiday season
After browsing the swanky streets of Mayfair and Soho, I walked to UCL’s campus, located in Bloomsbury, central London. Selin and I met at Store Street Espresso, which offers specialty drinks, cakes and sandwiches. I recall the blank white walls were spotted with stylish photography. It was lively with young UCL students studying and chatting. We caught up over hot lattes as she shared her semester abroad in London.
Once she took off for class, I went to Covent Garden, another lovely neighborhood that centers on the elegant, car-free piazza. It’s home to clothing stores, the Apple Market, the Jubilee Market Hall and the Royal Opera House. I loved walking around this open air market with its cobble stone walkways and cottage-esque buildings and plazas.
As the sun reached the horizon, I headed to Dishoom Covent Garden, a buzzy eatery for Indian street food in Bombay-style. This restaurant has vintage decor & elevated food that’ll light up your taste buds with spice and fire. Because of the long history of trade and cultural exchange between England and India, the Indian food is superb here. If the bangers and mash aren’t your cup of tea, try the Indian food!
Chicken Tikka, Garlic Naan and Chilli Broccoli Salad at Dishoom
At Dishoom, you might fancy their spicy lamb chops, chicken ruby, naan bread, and paneer. They’ve also got one heck of a vegetarian selection and an incredible house made Chai latte that makes for the perfect night-cap.
The day was so busy, I couldn’t believe it was only my first day - and it wasn’t over yet. After dinner, I still had the Arsenal soccer game at the Emirates Stadium. The English team is based in London Borough of Islington and it is one of the most successful teams in English fútbol history, having played in the country's top division since 1919.
On the subway to the stadium, the Tube was packed with soccer fans wearing face paint and red Arsenal jerseys. The Arsenal fans are called “the Gooners,” giving the team the nickname “Gunners.” The chanting carried us from the subway station all the way to the stadium, echoing through the dark streets.
I walked amongst the Gooners that night as they chanted, "By far the greatest team, the world has ever seen - it's Arsenal, Arsenal FC..."
Posh Palaces and Museums: Westminster and Kensington
I woke up the next morning, prepared for an educational day dedicated to palace tours and museums. With an early start, I walked to Westminster, the government district where the Buckingham Palace is located. Buckingham Palace is one of the most famous buildings in the world and one of the largest palaces in Europe. It’s also the official London residence of a long line of Kings and Queens, naturally making it a symbol of the monarchy.
Buckingham Palace
Although the palace is only open from July to September, I did get tickets to see the Queen’s Gallery. Adjacent to the palace, the gallery has a gorgeous collection of international antiques and gifts, many of those from Japan. Just in front of the palace, I also witnessed the “Changing of the Guards,” which takes place on M/W/F/Sun from August to May.
Merely 3 miles west of Buckingham Palace is the second most famous palace, Kensington Palace. Kensington Palace is located in West London and is the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. Here I enjoyed visiting the tasteful rooms that Queen Victoria grew up in, the King Estate Apartments, and the manicured outdoors of the Kensington Garden. Unlike Buckingham, the Kensington Palace is divided into apartments and offices used by young royals as well as non-royal figures of political and militaristic standing.
Portraits of Queen Elizabeth in Kensington Palace
If you’re choosing between the two, most will agree Buckingham is more interesting than Kensington. While the latter holds memories of the King and Queen’s families and colleagues, Buckingham holds obvious political and royal importance as Kings and Queens themselves lived there during their reign. Since I visited in November, the Buckingham Palace wasn’t open to the public, but the Kensington Palace satisfied my desire to see the lavish and regal side of life pictured in my favorite Bridgerton episodes.
Bordering the Kensington Palace is the neighborhood of South Kensington, which is home to a multitude of museums. Some of the free museums include the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Science Museum, and the Natural History Museum.
Blue Whale Fossil at the Natural History Museum
I was highly impressed by the Natural History Museum, which holds over 80 million items spread across five main collections: botany, entomology, mineralogy, paleontology and zoology. One of my favorite exhibits featured the notebooks and belongings of Charles Darwin, the English scientist and father of evolution.
After taking in the museum’s scientific knowledge, I got dinner at Papa L’s African Fusion, an African restaurant located in Leicester Square near Covent Garden.
PAPA L’s Grilled King Tiger Prawns, Plantain Chips, Coco Bread, and Grilled Asparagus with romesco sauce
The founder, Lawrence Gomez (aka PAPA L), was born and raised in Gambia and learned flavorful recipes from his mother as a boy. After working at top London establishments, he finally started his own restaurant and brought a taste of his African roots to London’s food scene. Was the meal as yummy as it looks?
(Heck) yes, Chef.
The “Best of London” Tour
Holding to my rule of thumb of “always having at least one guided tour per destination,” I got tickets for the “Best of London Including Tower of London, Changing of the Guard.” There’s something so enriching about learning about a culture in greater depth as opposed to just glancing around.
That morning, I ubered to the Victoria Coach Station in Westminster, where I met my group around 8 am. This guided tour included stops at the Royal Albert Hall, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, St Paul’s Cathedral, Tower Bridge and Tower of London. Let’s chat about of few of my favorites.
Our first stop was St. Paul’s Cathedral, a national treasure and backdrop for major events such as the wedding of King Charles III and Lady Diana Spencer as well as the funeral of Winston Churchill. Movies like Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, Sherlock Holmes, and Thor: The Dark World were notably filmed here. St Paul's Cathedral has one of the biggest domes in the world, standing at a staggering 366 feet high. My picture (top left) could only capture a fraction of how grand it was. The finely detailed art, golden pillars, and chandeliers left me in awe.
While St. Paul’s Cathedral is less commonly regarded as “east-minster,” St Peter’s Church became “Westminster Abbey” to distinguish the two. Westminster Abbey is another church owned by the royal family rather than any bishop of the Christian Church. It’s famous for the many British coronations, marriages, and burials that it hosted. You might recognize it from the 2011 marriage of Prince William to Kate Middleton.
My favorite part of the tour was the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. Ironically, the London Bridge mentioned in the classic nursery rhyme is much less impressive than the Tower Bridge - many even confuse the Tower Bridge for the London Bridge.
The Tower Bridge neighbors the Tower of London, which is a historic fortress that guarded royal possessions and the royal family in times of rebellion and war. It was a fortress, prison, and palace with a dark history. It was also called the “Bloody Tower” due to its strong association with murder and torture. Fun, right? Anyway, a ticket to the Tower of London includes seeing the Crown Jewels, Moat, Medieval Palace, and Torture at the Tower exhibition (to name a few). If you’re a Medieval Times junkie, this will peak your interests.
Grunge and Art Scene: Shoreditch and Camden Town
If I was living in London, I’d love to live in Shoreditch. The neighborhood of Shoreditch is known for its gritty charm and grungy artistic atmosphere, comparable to Haight Ashbury or the Mission in San Francisco. Take a stroll down the famous Brick Lane which is lined with bargain markets, colorful graffiti art, and the BEST curry restaurants in town. While walking along Brick Lane, I stumbled upon the Truman Market which is a lively market with +300 independent businesses. There are endless stalls with art prints, antiques, and fashionable accessories. I snagged a vintage Beatles music book from this miscellaneous stack of iconic photos and newspaper headlines.
On your way out, grab a bite from one of the many food trucks at Ely’s Yard. The space is former service yard that is now home to food trucks, markets, shops, bars and artworks by artists like Banksy and Invader.
North of Regent’s Park is Camden Town. When people think of Camden, they think punk, entertainment, and food. The people in Camden are from all over the world, creating the hip and friendly vibe associated with its name. Poets and musicians like Charles Dickens, Amy Winehouse, and Dylan Thomas are a few of its famous residents. In fact, a statue of Amy Winehouse stands proudly in Camden Town, commemorating the legendary musician 3 years after her death.
I loved wandering the colorful streets on my way to the market at Camden Lock. The market overlooks the Regents Canal and the vendors will draw you in with their eclectic goods sold in the indoor and outdoor stalls. Musicians and live entertainers will strum their guitars and sing passionately from every street corner.
Spot of Tea at the Ivy Chelsea Garden
If you’ve read this far, you’ve already soaked up plenty of the London experience. But Please Please Please don’t leave London without visiting a proper tea garden. While I didn’t see much of Chelsea itself, I did visit the area’s hottest tea spot, the Ivy Chelsea Tea Garden. My friend Aaliya who lives in London recommended this spot for our afternoon tea, and it was a hit!
We met outside the Ivy Chelsea Tea Garden, located on Kings Road in Chelsea around 4 pm on my last day. “Afternoon tea” time is between 3:30 - 5 pm while “high tea” is served later and often with a substantial dinner, from 5-7 pm. The food and tea at this restaurant maintains a high standard compared to others, so reservations are expected (and required). Ivy Chelsea Tea Garden impressed me with its teal colored walls, vintage decor, frilly cushioned seats, and flourishing outdoor garden.
We enjoyed their menu special which included sweet, savories, and scones and a selection of local and imported teas. I had the English black tea with cream and sugar. We were amazed by the wide range of delicacies that came out on dainty and charming yellow platters.
1917 Cure smoked salmon and cream cheese finger sandwiches, Grilled chicken and truffle mayonnaise brioche roll, Pickled cucumber, courgette and basil double decker. Warm fruit scones and a side of clotted cream, fresh strawberries and berry preserve. Summer chocolate pot, doughnuts filled with apricot jam, summer raspberry choux puffs, red velvet cupcake and a boba milk beverage.
The afternoon teas are meant to be a break in between lunch and dinner, but I was completely stuffed on all the English delicacies. It was a delightful way to conclude my time in England. Pinkies raised high, Aaliya and I gave a “clink clink” to a wonderful rendezvous. It was quite the turn from our last meal at “Aaha Indian Cuisine” in the Mission.
I departed London the next morning, acknowledging that there was still so much of London I had not yet seen. Since everything was not captured in my trip, I suggest investing in research based on what draws you to England. Is it Shakespearian plays? Victorian architecture? The Stonehenge? The Beatles? (Certainly it couldn’t be English food?)
No matter what your reason is for visiting, you’ll enjoy the diversity that England embraces and its rich history. The story of England is one worth learning about.
That’s the tea.
TLDR
To Know:
Mostly rainy weather year round - pack an umbrella and raincoat!
Change of Guards every morning except weekends or if rainy
Debit/credit cards are cheaper to scan for subway entry than getting a ticket
It’s harder to get ubers in UK since demand is higher than supply. Try taking “The Tube” or a local taxi.
Best place to stay is closer to West End: Covent Garden, Piccadilly, Leicester Square and Westminster
South of Thames is cheaper for stays and less touristy, but farther to travel to main tourist attractions
To Do:
Check out the Big Ben and London Eye, sitting along the River Thames. For a birds eye view, you can ride to the top of the London Eye for 29 euros if you book online.
Check out Buckingham Palace for a look at the most renowned palace in England. It’s open from July to September, while the Queen’s Gallery and Changing of the Guards are open year round.
Tour the Kensington Palace in the west end for a look into the lives of young royals and their families.
Stroll through Hyde Park, a beautiful 5,000 acre historic parkland located in the heart of the city.
Visit the St. Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey to see spectacular churches and religious relics.
Tower Bridge and Tower of London both interesting sights to see. A ticket entry to the Tower of London will grant access to the Crown Jewels, the Moat, the Medieval Palace, and the Torture at the Tower exhibition.
Shop at the Camden Market, a hip and grunge borough with outdoor and indoor markets overlooking the Regent’s Canal.
Take a stroll down the famous Brick Lane and stop by the Truman Market, a lively market with +300 independent businesses in Shoreditch.
Catch a musical or live show like the famous Wicked, Matilda, or Hamilton, at one of many theaters in London.
Follow the footsteps of Neolithic ancestors at the historical landmark, the Stonehenge. It’s one of the wonders of the world and a famous prehistoric monument in Europe.
Watch a soccer game at any of 21 fútbol stadiums in London!
To Eat:
For British food, fish & chips, meat pies, and traditional breakfast are recommended.
Chelsea Ivy Tea Garden is a trendy tea spot in Chelsea. Book ahead as reservations are required.
Papa L’s Kitchen has tasteful African dishes that will light up your taste buds.
Dishoom Covent Garden offers Bombay-style dishes from India. Don’t forget to wash everything down with their house made Chai!
Grab a bite from any of the food trucks at Ely’s Yard, home to food trucks, markets, and bars. Located in Shoreditch.
To Drink:
Grab a latte at Store Street Coffee, a minimalistic and charming cafe near UCL campus with specialty coffee and cakes.
