Well, I’ll be Dam’d!

If you’re looking for a funky, sexy, and artsy city to visit, look no further than Amsterdam. With its experimental music scene, vegan friendly food, and relatively progressive reputation, it might even remind you of Berkeley (go bears).

Picturesque canals in Amsterdam

I stayed in Amsterdam-West, nestled between Rembrandtpark and Vondelpark. It was a bit more out of the way from the busy city, making it a cheaper option. However, if you want to be close to the popular attractions and shopping, the city center is an excellent choice. This is the wide area located south of Central Station and north of Museumkwartier.

My method of “divide and conquer” worked best for getting around Amsterdam. I aimed for as little back and forth as possible, but Amsterdam is still very walkable and bikeable, even comparable to getting around San Francisco. I dedicated each day to the top sights in the regions of De Wallen, Jordaan, De Pijp and Museumkwartier. See my cute little map drawing below :P

Cute little map depicts rough sketch of Jordaan (blue), De Wallen (pink) and Museumkwartier and De Pijp (purple)

You won’t want to spend less than 3 days in Amsterdam, but I’d suggest 4 days if you don’t want to feel rushed. Here are my recommendations on what to see and do in the capital of the Netherlands.

De Pijp, Museumkwartier, and EDM

The March air was crisp and cold as I walked along the narrow streets. I started my morning at White Label Coffee, a quaint cafe with a loft and plenty of seating space. Fun fact: Dutch Bros is from Oregon, not Amsterdam. There are no Dutch Bros locations in the Netherlands, but that’s all the more reason to get a real Dutch coffee from a local coffee shop!

Cozy morning at White Label Coffee

Latte in hand, I made my way to the Albert Cuyp Market, a famous outdoor market in the De Pijp area of the Oud-Zuid district. If you take a stroll through this market, you’ll see caramel-filled stroopwafels being prepared, fresh herring, and many souvenirs, artisanal crafts, and clothes for sale. 

I stuffed my bag full of stroopwafels, and headed just a few blocks over to an eatery called Mr. Stack Brunch. If you’re a foodie or have an undeniable sweet tooth, get a load of these puppies.

The puppies

The pancakes had more similarities to a donut than an American flapjack, but they will please your belly and your instagram feed. You won’t even notice these thick, golden pancakes are vegan (Amsterdam has a lot of vegans for reasons I do not know).

This meal was fueling me up for an equally “stacked” day. The neighborhood of Museumkwartier is located in the borough of Amsterdam-Zuid and is known for it’s many museums such as Moco Museum, Van Gogh Museum, and the Rijksmuseum. Each will satisfy a different artistic palette for you art lovers. Thankfully, all 3 museums are located near each other in Museum Square in Amsterdam South. The tickets for these museums have specific entry times, so remember to space your reservations out enough to enjoy each.

My first stop was the Moco Museum, a modern contemporary museum with cool, quirky, and colorful artwork. You’ll see light arrangements, political works by Banksy, photography, and other multi-media work. Much of the artwork here was representative of modern sociopolitical issues and movements. Talk about statement pieces! If you’re a fan of our beloved SF MOMA, you’ll definitely enjoy the Moco.

Immersive digital art by Dutch artist Studio Irma

The Van Gogh Museum was my personal favorite, as I had grown up learning about Vincent Van Gogh’s work in high school art classes. Not only are his paintings astounding, but the museum thoughtfully lays out the timeline of his life, correlating life events with his displayed pieces. Explore his childhood, relationships, rise to artist fame, and mental health struggles through the colors and patterns of his Post-Impressionist work.

Self-portrait by Vincent Van Gogh

Last but not least was the Rijksmuseum, which is amongst the world’s finest art museums. It packs nearly 8000 artworks, including masterpieces by Rembrandt & Vermeer. Rijksmuseum is unique because it covers 800 years of Dutch history. If you want to learn about the nation’s history through paintings, sculptures, antiques, and religious relics, this is the place to go.

While at the museums, its worthwhile to stop by VondelPark, a public urban park just a 15 walk away from Museumkwartier. Amsterdam’s most popular park is 120 acres of greenery, water features, and walkways for strolling. This is a great spot to picnic or stop your bicycle for a quick rest.

For dinner, I headed North to the best food hall in the city, the Foodhallen. In De Hallen, your mouth will water from the smell of Asian noodles, French pastries, Mumbai street food, and crispy bitterballen. Despite their wide selection, I went straight for De Ballen Bar for bitterballs. Michelin star chef Peter Gast and his Souschef Jeroen Elijzen serve their own style of bitterballs with fillings like Dutch shrimp, bouillabaisse, rund, and truffle.

Image from De Ballenbar

In addition to your foodie adventures in Foodhallen, it’s only right to try a Heineken beer in the country it was founded! Thought it was Germany? Think again, baby.

If you don’t typically enjoy beer (aha me), you ought to try a pint at a local bar for the experience. However, if beer is your go-to, level up with a tour of the Heineken Experience, Heineken’s oldest brewery. They offer an interactive tour through the former brewery, with a tasting room finale.

In addition to beer, EDM music and funky DJs are all the rave in Amsterdam (I bet they’d like the Do-Lab). One of Amsterdam’s top music venues is Paradiso. It was originally built in 1880 as a church for the Free Congregation, but it became a “pop temple” in the 1990s.

Franc Moody at the Paradiso

On my first night, I saw Franc Moody, the musical duo from England, perform at Paradiso, and the night scene was lively with dancing, groovy music, and colorful strobe lights. The Dutch love pop contemporary and electronic dance music, and these are considered the two top music genres in the country. Notable venues like Bimhuis and Meervaart are regarded as household names for spearheading jazz and free expression of music. This influenced Amsterdam’s role as an artistic hub in the realm of EDM.


Red Lights District and Van Stapele Cookies

Day 2 was dedicated to the oldest part of the Amsterdam called De Wallen, which means “the walls.” Although formerly called the medieval center, it is now better known as the Red Lights District. You could say the horse whips and prisoner chains took on a new meaning.

[Quick commercial break]

Before we go to the “Sin City” of Amsterdam, let me start with my spiel on coffee and flowers. I started day two with a brunch at LOCALS All Day Brunch on Daniël Stalpertstraat street in De Pijp. I absolutely loved this cafe and its minimalist approach to modern breakfast and classic espresso drinks. And yes, they have avocado toast, too. On route to De Wallen, I also meandered my way to Bloemenmarkt, the world’s only floating flower market. Sitting on the Singel canal, it holds numerous stands filled with flowers for cheap prices and tulip bulbs for planting. The bulbs make an excellent souvenir to take back home. Flowers and coffee = wholesome and happy.

The floating flower market, Bloemenmarkt

Alright, let’s take a dark turn from the tulips and bicycles, shall we?

The Red Lights District is located in the heart of the city and is the scene for “sex and drugs” - both legal here of course. I think the most jarring thing about this it is how….put together it is? Not dirty, scary, and dingy, but clean, orderly, commercial, and extremely normalized.

Everyday locals and families with young children will be eating at restaurants or making their way through the streets, barely minding the risqué shops and strippers. Depending on your interests, this place may or may not have much to offer, but it’s a sight to witness. Needless to say, I took a quick walk through, picked up some laughable underwear and magnets, and hurried along.

There is, however, a lot more to do around the Red Lights District, which is slightly tucked away in the back alleys. Many of the oldest buildings to date are located here. De Wallen is also home to many historical sites like the Dam Square, De Oude Kerk (Old Church), the Central Train Station, and the Royal Palace of Amsterdam.

The Royal Palace of Amsterdam

While in De Wallen, be sure to stop by Van Stapele Koekmakerij, the famous bakery that sells one kind of cookie. Yep, just one. I’ll take a dozen dark chocolate dough cookies with delicious white chocolate filling please.

The cookies of Van Stapele

This “one cookie business plan” clearly works for them, as there’s always a line outside Van Stapele. But don’t worry - it moves fast.


Anne Frank House

While in Amsterdam, I hope you carve out time to see the Anne Frank House located in the neighborhood of Jordaan. On my final day, I visited the house that once hid Anne Frank and her family during World War II. The heart-wrenching museum holds original items, photos, film clips, and quotes and left me emotionally moved and subdued by the recorded tragedies.

Anne Frank’s recovered family photos

Her diary, however, leaves room for courage and hope. It greatly influenced people’s opinions regarding the Holocaust and exposed the atrocities of inhumanity in detail. Her everlasting belief in human goodness, however, echoes strongly in her writing and inspires us today.

“I don't think of all the misery, but of the beauty that still remains,” Anne Frank wrote.

Keukenhof and Canals

If you’re visiting from late March to mid May, you’ll witness the gorgeous tulip season of the Netherlands. Also regarded as the “Garden of Europe,” Keukenhof is one of the world's largest flower gardens and spans 32 hectares. Approximately 7 million flower bulbs are planted each year, and they flourish starting late March to early April. The garden is located in the municipality of Lisse, only a 35 minute drive from Amsterdam, and there are plenty of tours that will take you there during tulip season.

Keukenhof will blow you away and have you appreciating those tulips you buy from Trader Joes a little more. The bulbs are from Amsterdam after all!

Amsterdam is also called the “Venice of the North,” with 165 canals - even more water canals than their Italian counterparts in Venice. My wonderful trip came to a close with a peaceful and serene Canal Boat Tour. The tour was as lovely as it was entertaining and informative. Our tour guide just popped another bottle of champagne and remarked, “Can you believe about fifteen men drown in Amsterdam's canals every year, when trying to pee in them while drunk?”

Some people should leave their “go piss girl” at home.

No peeing Dutchmen in sight

I recommend taking a boat out to the waters, where you can navigate between the streets and buildings of the city. You’ll surely learn about the rich trading history, iconic bridges, and 17th century buildings lining the canals!

All things considered, Amsterdam stood out as a very unique trip unlike my other European adventures. Enjoy the delicious stroopwafel, funky music and art, beautiful streets and architecture, and waterways. Just don’t go peeing in any canals!

TLDR

To Do:

  • Anne Frank Museum will move you beyond the diary entries we read in high school. Step into the house and attic for a look into Anne Frank’s life during the Nazis reign.

  • Rijksmuseum is a fantastic fine arts museum with Dutch paintings, drawings, sculptures, and history spanning the Middle Ages to the 20th century.

  • Van Gogh Museum takes you through the life of Vincent Van Gogh and describes it’s influence on his showcased artwork.

  • Moco Museum is a contemporary museum for lovers of modern art. If you like light displays, Banksy, and digital art, this is the place for you.

  • Enjoy a live music at Club Paradiso, a great venue to dance the night away. Check out their schedule here.

  • Dam Square is at the city’s center and has no shortage of restaurants, historical buildings and shopping. You’ll likely end up passing through inevitably.

  • De Oude Kerk (Old Church) is Amsterdam's oldest building and newest art institute. Buy tickets to tour the church and it’s historical side rooms.

  • Royal Palace of Amsterdam is a symbol of royal splendor and glamorous architecture. Admire the outside or get tickets to explore the palace interior to learn more about the Dutch royal family.

  • Visit the Heineken Brewery for a cold beer and an interactive tour of the brewery.

  • Vondelpark is the largest urban park in Amsterdam and offers a green space for picnics, walks and lounging in the sun.

  • Rembrandtpark is another lovely escape from the commotion of the city. Enjoy this park in addition or instead of its sister park.

  • Albert Cuyp Market is a famous outdoor market in the Oud-Zuid district. You can rely on this market for souvenirs, stroopwafel, and herring!

  • Keukenhof Gardens, located in Lisse (March-May), is a worthwhile bus ride to see a stunning field of tulips. Spring photo op!

  • Red Lights District - well you know.

To Eat:

  • Visit the Foodhallen for a variety of delicious foods from around the world. Make sure to try bitterballs from De Ballenbar!

  • Dine at LOCALS All Day Brunch for avocado toast, coffee, and pastries.

  • Grab a seat at Mr. Stacks for those thick Dutch pancakes.

  • Moeders is a famous restaurant with photos of mums & antiques lining their walls. Drop by for Dutch classics, but definitely make a resy in advance. I didn’t get one in the 3 days I was there!

  • Ohhh Van Stapele Koekmakerij. The dark chocolate dough cookies with delicious white chocolate filling will be worth the line.

  • Rudi’s Original Stroopwafels are located at the Albert Cuyp Market. Freshly made and deliciously served - yum.

  • SOIL Vegan Cafe is a yummy vegan eatery with vegan comfort foods like cheese burgers, ribs, tacos and bitterballen!

  • Veganees give s creative vegan twist on Southeast Asian food. It wasn’t my favorite, but perhaps I ordered the wrong thing. I’d give it a second try.

Coffee

  • White Label Coffee offers a cute loft space where you can enjoy a yummy croissant and latte. Enjoy a pick me up for your morning.

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