How Tequil Time in Mexico City
Tostadas, Tajin and Tequila! Yep, we’ re going to Mexico (that’s Me-HEE-co) to experience a bustling city that has more recently drawn attention from tourists around the world. You can surely get around and see the main attractions in 3-4 days, but of course the longer you stay, the deeper you dive into the culture. As one of my tour guides said, “Mexico is more than just Aztecs and tequila.” Come with me to see just what this beautiful and vibrant place is all about. Here are my top recommendations.
Hot Air Balloons, Teotihuacán Pyramids, and Roma Norte
Want to see part of Mexico City from thousands of feet above ground? If you’re afraid of heights, maybe not. But riding in a hot air balloon has always been on my bucket list, and Mexico City seemed like a good place to check it off.
I rode in the popular hot air balloons that float over the Teotihuacán Pyramids. This experience starts very early, because the wind currents are most stable when it’s cooler temperatures. I booked a 5:30 am tour “Hot Airballoon Flight over Teotihuácan” through Viator, which picked me up from Mexico City at 4:30 am and drove me to the flight headquarters, about 45 minutes away from the city. The air balloon ride was so smooth that even those afraid of flying would find it extremely serene. You’ll ride among several other balloons dotting the sky like colorful specs, and the sunrise will tint with an orange and pink hue. It’s truly a magical ride, and our guide Juan ended it with a toast of sparkling rose when we landed.
Hot Air Balloons floating over prickly pear farms
Our group received our Certificates of Flight (aka Certificates of Survival), then was treated to a breakfast buffet while a mariachi band played in a courtyard with vines hugging cream-colored walls. As the band strummed their guitarrons and blew their trumpets, we ate cactus, potato and cheese tacos, scrambled eggs, and beans. If none of your tours include a mariachi performance, I’d recommend eating dinner at a local restaurant that has shows or going to Plaza Garibaldi where they play often. Following our meal, those who opted in to visit the Teotihuacán Pyramids were shuttled to the archeological site. The entry free for the pyramids cost 10 pesos. Be mindful of the bright red fire ants crawling about the area…
For the rest of the first day, I walked around Roma Norte, the neighborhood where I was residing, and La Condesa. I find that walking the city streets is such a huge part of “feeling the city.” These two neighborhoods are known for being more modern, and the coffee shops will remind you of the trendy cafes you’d see in New York or Los Angeles. Roma and Condesa are also known for being the safest - so safe that my Airbnb hosts said it was okay to walk the streets (to my Hot Air Balloon Tour meeting point) at 4 am in the morning. I’m alive to tell the tale.
Coyoacán, Frida Kahlo, and Pujol
Located south of Roma, approximately a 30 minute drive away, is the borough called Coyoacán, or “City of Coyotes.” This historical neighborhood is located at the heart of Mexico City and was the first city to be conquered and settled by the Spanish conquistadors. Coyoacán has a very different vibe from Roma Norte or Condesa, as it exudes the traditional and old town character. There’s a must-try cafe called Café El Jaracho, which has been around since 1953. It’s a corner coffee shop that’s famous for it’s hot and iced chocolates. Only 20 pesos for these sweet and satisfying bevs. There are 9 branches now administered by the children of the founders, but the Coyoacán cafe is authentico.
I spent my entire day roaming around Coyoacán. I highly (with the utmost HIGH) recommend the Coyoacán Biking Tour + Frida Kahlo Museum through Viator which includes entry to the “Casa Azul.” Biking in Coyoacán is a must, and it’s easy and enjoyable since the area is very flat, unlike my beloved San Francisco. Many go to Coyoacán for the Frida Kahlo museum alone, but the quaint neighborhood is worth learning more about. On my tour we stopped by the yellow church in Plaza el Conchita, a colorful home and picturesque courtyard in the Hacienda la Cortes, the memorial fountain and statues of Frida Kahlo and Diego Riviera in the Parque Frida Kahlo, and had a variety of savory tostadas in the Mercado el Cayoacán. We ended at the Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s childhood home, where we learned about Frida’s life and struggles that led her to became the artists and loved figure she is today. There’s usually a long line for entry, so it’s best to get tickets beforehand. I loved the timeless area of Coyoacán so much that I returned the next day to revisit the Mercado el Cayoacán and shop at Artesanías Coyoacán.
Frida Kahlo’s “Casa Azul”
After my visit to Coyoacán, I ended my day with a dinner at Pujol, the 2-star Michelin restaurant that has made it in the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” for consecutive years. It was ranked #13 in 2023, #9 in 2022, and #1 in my heart. Pujol is a fine-dining experience, the kind where your waiters are watching like hawks and attending to you faster than you can say “perdón.” As you’d imagine, a reservation far in advance is necessary. There’s also a waitlist that you might be lucky enough to get off (hey, I did after joining the day before!). Although elevated in cuisine, Pujol’s 7 course meal incorporates many traditional ingredients of its region.
Today’s Menu: Chopped crickets and seaweed sharing a seat on a crunchy tostada. Baby corn covered in a spicy mayo sauce. Smoky ground up ants powdered on tuna fish crudo. And refreshing Mexican mint leaves baked into corn tortillas you can dip in 4615 day old mole sauce. I hope you’re feeling adventurous because you’ll want to try everything to get your money’s worth. This meal will cost about $250 USD. Holy mole!
Outside Pujol, located in the Polanco neighborhood
Museums and Chapultepec Castle
My final day was dedicated to the region of Chapultepec and the many museums located within its park. Chapultepec is west of Roma and Condesa, represented on google maps as a large green city park. This is where you’ll find the National Anthropology Museum, Chapultepec Castle, the Museum of Modern Art, Chapultepec Zoo, and the Museum of Contemporary Art. I’d suggest doing a museum day so you aren’t going back and forth from the area, as it’s a bit further from Roma and Condesa. The Anthropology Museum was the highlight of my museum experience. You’ll learn about the Aztecs and Mayans and even see the famous Mayan calendar that said the world would end in 2012. Just note there are 23 exhibits so choose wisely!
Mayan calendar on display at the Anthropology Museum
This last section is shorter because, as I mentioned earlier, I loved Coyoacán so much I went back at the end of my last day to shop at the fantastic markets. If I could extend my trip, I’d have gone to the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), watched a Lucha Libre wrestling match, and gone to the only taco stand in the world to get a coveted Michelin Star: El Califa de León.
The Return
I now reminisce biking in cobblestone alleyways between pink and blue casas, eating fresh coconut just chopped by a boy running his family fruit stand, and sitting outside Café El Jaracho chatting with a 60 year old local who told me about his life in Coyoacán and international travels.
I return from Mexico City feeling much gratitude. The trip left me with a nice warm buzz. Not the kind after drinking too much tequila, but the kind you’d expect to get after spending time around friendly and smiling locals who find much happiness in the simple things. Mexico embraces its authenticity like a hug from a friend.
Other Recommendations:
Activities and Tours
Enjoy the famous Lucha Libre for a truly immersive experience. These shows occur on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday, and some tours include mezcal tastings and tacos beforehand.
Watch a Mexican Folk Ballet for an artistic performance with music and dance.
Visit the Tolantongo Hot Springs on a day trip to the hidden paradise out of the city. This is your best bet on getting some swim time in as cenotes and beaches are 3-4 hours away.
Take a trip to Guadalajara for a Tequila Tour and Tasting at the tequila distilleries.
For some interesting architecture, check out Casa Giraldi and Casa Pedegral as recommended from a friend.
Coffee and Pastries
Panadería Rossetta is a cute and hip cafe with a crazy selection of pastries and sandwiches.
Maque Café holds a French bakery like and cottage-esque feel. Drop by for freshly baked bread, coffee, and pastries.
Café el Jarocho has delicious iced and hot chocolates, served from its renowned family-run cafes.
Healthy Meals
Bou has a leafy patio to sit in and enjoy delicious cookies, pastries, and extensive brunch selection.
Green Grass Reforma strikes a scary similarity to Sweetgreen. I mean identical.
Dining
Azul Histórico recommended by my Airbnb host for tacos and pazole.
El Califa de León is the only taco stand to get a coveted Michelin star. The wait can be anywhere from 1-4 hours long and it has 4 menu options.
Galea is a highly reviewed Italian restaurant in Roma. Great for a break from Mexican food!
Pujol is ranked #13 in World’s 50 Best. Book a reservation and enjoy a 7 course meal inspired by regional ingredients.
Quintanil is ranked #9 in World’s 50 Best. Enjoy meat and seafood dishes, paired with wine.
Bars
Cafe de Nadie is a vinyl-themed bar with records stacked in every shelf. Enjoy cocktails and mocktails from their “CD” menu.
Hugo Wine Bar is a classy wine bar and restaurant that feels like a modern, French restaurant.
Handshake Speakeasy is a top rated bar for a night out. I was unable to get in because the wait was 1 hour long (on a Tuesday) and I wasn’t looking to hang around that long.
Dessert
Churrería El Moro Centro is the highest ranked churreria. This renowned churrería is open 24 hours for churros & hot chocolate.
Tout Chocolaté has artisanal chocolates, desserts, espresso drinks & coffees.
Ki'Xocolatl is a chocolate shop in Coyoacán that sells delicious chocolate bars and boxes infused with lime and almond (my favorite), mole, regional spices, coffee beans and cacao nibs.
Additional Tips:
Stay in Roma or La Condesa as they are very safe and populated with families. Avoid areas like Iztapalapa, Tepito, Neza, Ecatepec, and Doctores.
If you do the hot air balloon ride, stay near or at a hotel that serves as a meeting point for the tour organizer. The meeting time is early!
Ubering is cheap and safe, but be mindful that there is lots of traffic and commute can take longer than expected. Ubers are verified and thus safer than taking a taxi.
Bring cash to the markets and for vendors as some don’t take card.
Do not drink the tap water! Only drink bottled water or filtered mineral water.
